A Kayak Excursion with Mass Audubon

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Throughout my childhood, my parents organized canoe trips on local rivers. They would invite their friends, who would bring their children, and we’d take the entire day to explore someplace new. 

 

What began close to home – the North River, the South River – spread to points all over eastern Massachusetts. We canoed the Concord and the Ipswich to the north; the Bass and the Plymouth ponds to the south. Each trip had its memorable moments: the kids who stayed warm in garbage bags after their parents capsized the canoe; the dad who was left stranded over the cold autumn water, dangling from a rope swing; the dam my high school friends and I almost drifted over at the end of one particularly long trip.

As a child, I was spared the logistics, but I still remember the stress of wondering whether an aluminum canoe would actually remain lashed to the top of a Toyota Corolla for the duration of a 50-mile highway trek. This was back in the days when woven cinch-straps weren’t so readily available.

As an adult, I’ve mused about organizing similar excursions for my own circle of friends. I’ll begin to consider what such a trip might entail, and then back away quickly. Even locally, it seems like a lot of work. There are so many variables – the tides, the wind, the weather in general. Rounding up the right number of boats and PFDs (personal flotation devices are required by local law). Towing boats, staging vehicles for one-way trips, choosing a date that works for everyone. Headache!

Not that there aren’t alternatives. A number of local organizations offer guided excursions for canoes, kayaks, and SUPs – on our local rivers and plenty of other appealing places as well. Some of these trips are the Bring Your Own sort – you show up with your boat and PFD, and then follow the leader on a pre-determined course. Others are Full Service. You show up empty handed and they outfit you with everything you need.

Historically, I’ve turned my nose up at the “outfitter” excursions. They’re more expensive, and what fun is a paddling trip if you don’t arrive exhausted from the stress of organizing it? But I'm beginning to see the light.

This spring my mother asked if I would like to accompany her on a kayaking trip on the Green Harbor River, led by Mass Audubon. It would take place on a weekday morning, while my son was at school, and all we’d have to do was show up ready to paddle. The cost was around $40 per person. Her birthday was approaching . . . and after an brief internal dialogue along the lines of “I could borrow a second kayak and take her there for free,” I remembered that it was HER birthday, and perhaps it would be nice just to give her what she wanted. I signed us up.

The excursion day arrived, and with it, a horrible forecast. Driving rain, thunder, lightning . . . all expected before noon. The trip was cancelled . . . but quickly rescheduled for two weeks later. Could we still make it? Yes!

When we arrived at Peter Igo Park in Marshfield, we found that our guides had already unloaded the kayaks at the edge of the access path. PFDs were provided, so we just had to find ones that fit us. Paddles had already been carried to the dock. We were offered a choice between single-person or double kayaks, and once everyone had selected their boat, we worked as a group to haul them to the water. And then for the next 2.5 hours, after a brief skills tutorial, we enjoyed an informative and relaxing paddle up and down the river.

Let me stress the word “relaxing.” I didn’t realize how much “just showing up” would make a difference. We saw osprey; we saw herons. Our guides told a little bit about river ecology. There was talk of a Snickers bar, too, but I never saw it. And at the end, we were encouraged just to leave our gear in the trailer and go home. It was a very pleasant morning, and well worth the cost.

Both Mass Audubon (massaudubon.org) and the North and South Rivers Watershed Association (nsrwa.org) offer paddling trips on our local waterways. You can find current information on their websites. NSRWA is hosting a Kayak Tour on the North River on August 6^th. Statewide, Mass Audubon offers something nearly every week. For those who want to do even less work (no paddling), be sure to check out NSRWA’s weekly Pontoon Boat cruises.

by Kezia Bacon

July 2017

Kezia Bacon's articles appear courtesy of the North and South Rivers Watershed Association, a local non-profit organization devoted to protecting our waters. For membership information and a copy of their latest newsletter, contact NSRWA at (781) 659-8168 or visit www.nsrwa.org. To browse 20 years of nature columns, visit http://keziabaconbernstein.blogspot.com

Kayaks on the North River.

Paddle the Green Harbor River

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The Green Harbor River, as viewed from the dock at Peter Igo Park.

 

Until recently, those who wished to paddle a kayak, canoe or other non-motorized craft on the Green Harbor River had few appealing options for launch sites. They could pull to the side of Route 139 in Green Harbor and creep down the steep rocky embankment of the bridge at the Brant Rock Dike, or they could tramp hundreds of feet through overgrown brush and poison ivy . . . Other than that, there was nothing. But then things started happening at Peter Igo Park in Brant Rock, and now, not only is there reasonable access to the river, it’s slated for further improvement!

The changes are in large part the result of the work of the Peter Igo Park Initiative (PIP), a non-profit organization dedicated to rehabilitating a mostly-neglected Marshfield park. Since 2008, the PIP has been taking steps to transform the 17-acre park into a much more user-friendly space. They oversaw a major upgrade to the tennis and basketball courts on site, removed tons of refuse, thinned trees, cleared brush, and created a path through the woods and the marsh, right up to the river’s edge. There’s even a dock, with plans to install a much larger one, once permitting from the state is complete. This past summer, they even hired a team of goats to eradicate some of the poison ivy!

I’ve had a kayak for more than twenty years now, but somehow – for the past decade and more – I’ve let the cobwebs collect around it. When I dragged it out from its storage place last month, I found evidence of a critter nesting deep in its bow!

It was the end of September, the kids were back in school, and all the pieces had fallen into place for me to go out on the water. I had a friend with whom to paddle, and enough time in my schedule to make a day of it. Plus the weather was just-right. And so we transported our boats to Peter Igo Park, hauled them down the new path to the river, and headed upstream.

The Green Harbor River flows through my backyard. It took me years to figure this out. What I always thought was a pond was in fact a wide upstream section. The Green Harbor River rises from ponds and wetlands from near the Garrretson cranberry bogs, between Moraine Street (Route 3A) and Black Mount in Marshfield. From there it flows under Webster Street and through the aptly-named Green Harbor Golf Course before crossing into Mass Audubon’s Daniel Webster Wildlife Sanctuary. Then it’s a slow, snaky passage to the sea, via the Brant Rock Dike and Green Harbor’s actual harbor.

In contrast to the more heavily trafficked North and South Rivers, the Green Harbor River is relatively quiet. Most of it is bordered, on one side if not two, by conservation land. Since the Brant Rock Dike impedes access from the harbor and the ocean, typically  there aren’t any motor boats on it either. It’s a lovely place to paddle, as it winds through salt marsh and red cedar swamp.

In late summer, the marsh grass grows very tall. You may not be able to tell from a distance, but it easily extends to ten feet in height. When you’re down on the water, seated in a kayak, it towers over you. It’s not terrain I’d choose to walk through, but as a backdrop to the river, I really enjoy the sense of enclosure that it creates. There’s something very peaceful about one’s view being limited to water, trees, sky, and tall golden grass.

That said, I’d also like to paddle the Green Harbor River in the spring, when the marsh grass is just beginning to come in. That way, I’d be better able to see what borders it.

Access to the Green Harbor River is free and open to the public. Parking is available at Peter Igo Park, as well as across the street at the DAV, where a few spots are reserved for paddlers. Take Route 139 through Green Harbor toward Brant Rock, go past the Marina and the Yacht Club, and then after you’ve crossed the bridge, turn left onto Marshall Street. Large signs make it difficult to miss. The recently-mulched path to the water is to the left of the tennis courts. It’s not exactly a short haul to the river – but it’s direct, and it’s worth it. On the relatively calm day that I visited this fall, it took a little over an hour to paddle up to the first wooden bridge in Daniel Webster Sanctuary, but only half that (with the wind at our backs) to return.

Also of note is a privately-owned island, in the middle of the river, right across from the launch. Wooden signs posted there indicate that visitors are welcome, as long as they treat the property with respect. It’s well worth the exploration!

For more information about about the Peter Igo Park Initiative, visit http://www.peterigo.com.

by Kezia Bacon

September 2015

Kezia Bacon's articles appear courtesy of the North and South Rivers Watershed Association, a local non-profit organization devoted to the preservation, restoration, maintenance and conservation of the North and South Rivers and their watershed. For membership information and a copy of their latest newsletter, contact NSRWA at (781) 659-8168 or visit www.nsrwa.org. To browse 19 years of Nature (Human and Otherwise) columns, visit http://keziabaconbernstein.blogspot.com

High Tide at the Daniel Webster Wildlife Sanctuary

Ted O'Callahan helps his wife, Kim Hubbard, through one of the preserve's wetter areas.

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Mid-afternoon on the day after Thanksgiving, I went with friends to Mass Audubon’s Daniel Webster Wildlife Sanctuary in Marshfield. This formerly agricultural property, known to some locals as Dwyer Farm, is one of my favorite places to walk. Among other things, it’s expansive, picturesque, and relatively close to home, so it’s the place I most often bring guests from out of town. It was a chilly day, but sunny, and so we chose the sanctuary’s wide open fields over other, more woodsy options.

“Favorite place” aside, it had been a few years since I’d walked at Daniel Webster. At first it didn’t seem like much had changed. We made our way around the perimeter of the 600+ acres, strolling past the pond and an observation blind, and into the woods where a series of boardwalks led us over wetlands and among ice-encrusted trees. As usual, there was plenty of beauty to observe: the blue sky reflected on the water’s surface; the rich orange and reds of bittersweet vines; bright green tufts of meadow grass poking up through the snow.

My companions were unfamiliar with the property, so while I led them around, I told them what I knew of its history and geography. How it had been spared from development decades earlier through a sustained grassroots effort; how it once belonged to nineteenth-century Senator Daniel Webster; how a portion of the parcel was indeed “sanctuary” for wildlife and thus closed to the public.

As we neared Fox Hill, a rise from which – looking toward the ocean -- one can see far down into the Green Harbor River Valley, I had a vague recollection of an article I’d read in the local paper a while back . . . something about adjusting the tide gates in the dike between the harbor and the river – an effort to improve water flow and reduce flooding. I wondered if there would be a discernible difference upstream.

We continued our circuit, traversing another boardwalk through what I remembered – a few years back – as being mostly-dry marsh grass. Looking down, I was surprised to see how flooded the marsh was! High tide was still an hour away, but indeed, there was a lot more water under the walkway than there used to be. So much that I wondered, when high tide came, whether the boardwalk would be submerged.

At the end of the boardwalk, there is a grassy path that leads to a short O-shaped trail. If you go right, you can follow the trail along the water’s edge. If you go left, you climb up onto a wooden bridge that crosses – and offers a great view of -- the river. Well, those are the options at low tide, at least! We found the trail pretty-well swamped; even the few steps to the bridge required careful footing.

Beyond that bridge, another boardwalk leads through a red maple swamp, to a second bridge and river crossing. My memories were of at least a foot of clearance between the boardwalk planks and the water, but again, it seemed that the distance had shortened dramatically. An inch or two more of incoming tide would have put the walkway under water.

We completed our excursion with dry feet and – for me at least – a lot of questions. Was this a fluke occurrence, or are the water levels in the river and its wetlands this high all the time now? Has there always been such a tidal influence within the wildlife sanctuary, or is this new? Is the water saltier now, due to greater tidal influence, or is it just higher? What does this mean for the vegetation along the banks of the river, and the wildlife?

I directed my inquiries to Sue MacCallum, Director of Mass Audubon’s South Shore Sanctuaries, and Jay Wennemer, the Town of Marshfield’s Conservation Agent. Here’s what I learned: Yes, indeed, the tide gates at the Brant Rock Dike are now routinely adjusted to control the flow of water into and out of the Green Harbor River. In the past, there were issues with sedimentation, flooding, and especially in summer, stench. Now the town can – for example -- open the gates to allow more water to flow in, or close them to protect the river valley from a coastal storm. Thanks to this joint effort by the town and several state agencies, the marsh and river are healthier now. Similar projects have taken place with great success at Straits Pond in Hull and Cohasset, and Musquashcut Pond in Scituate.

According to Samantha Woods, Executive Director of the North and South Rivers Watershed Association, “Managing tide gates to work in concert with nature allows us to reduce the impacts these structures have on the ecology of the river. Like the removal of dams on rivers, the restoration of tidal flows changes the landscape that we have come to know in our lifetimes but ultimately the system is much healthier when we try to mimic what nature intended.”

Sara Grady, Regional Coordinator of the Massachusetts Bays National Estuary Program, is part of the team that has been monitoring changes in vegetation, fish and invertebrates associated with this project. She explains, “the changes that have been seen are primarily that there are estuarine species of plants and animals (including some salt marsh habitat) upstream of the tide gate now, and the Phragmites near the tide gate and in the upper tributaries has started to disappear. In addition, there are places on the MassAudubon property that were meadow that are transitioning to wetland, particularly the area near the osprey pole, where there is a (formerly dry) creek that now experiences tides.”

It’s important to note that none of these are negatives. In fact, according to Wennemer, they are quite positive, as they vastly improve the ability of a large inland portion of Marshfield to tolerate storm-related flooding. The landscape will change over time, but we won’t know for sure in which ways or to what degree until more time has passed. For me, that’s an intriguing proposition. As the years pass, there will be fascinating to see what happens at the Daniel Webster Sanctuary.

 by Kezia Bacon

 January 2015 

Kezia Bacon's articles appear courtesy of the North and South Rivers Watershed Association, a local non-profit organization devoted to the preservation, restoration, maintenance and conservation of the North and South Rivers and their watershed. For membership information and a copy of their latest newsletter, contact NSRWA at (781) 659-8168 or visit www.nsrwa.org. To browse 15 years of Nature (Human and Otherwise) columns, visit http://keziabaconbernstein.blogspot.com

Discovering Daniel Webster Wildlife Sanctuary

The main trail at Daniel Webster Wildlife Sanctuary in Marshfield.

One of the best walking places in the area just got better! After years of effort and an extensive permitting process, the Massachusetts Audubon Society recently added a new trail and constructed two bridges over the Green Harbor River at the Daniel Webster Wildlife Sanctuary in Marshfield.

The Webster Sanctuary, a.k.a. Dwyer Farm, is comprised of a diversity of habitats -- from meadow to marsh to woodland, plus a river and a pond. Trails and boardwalks stretch across expansive fields, along riverbanks, and through woods of cherry, maple and birch. To encourage visitors to pause and reflect upon their surroundings, the property also includes two wildlife observation blinds, numerous benches in quiet spots inviting contemplation, and a platform at the top of a small hill that offers one of the most unique views around.

There is so much to experience at Daniel Webster Sanctuary, yet I admit I have often yearned for more. I’ve longed to see what lies beyond the easternmost expanse of the trail system -- to explore the meadows that stretch from Fox Hill to the sea. I’ve daydreamed about paddling my kayak from the tide gate on Dyke Road, upstream through the Webster Sanctuary, as far up the Green Harbor River as possible. And I’ve always wanted to explore the woods on the other side of the river.

What a thrill that one of those wishes has now been granted! The River Walk, the new trail at the Webster Sanctuary, branches off from the property’s main path, crosses a simple but beautifully constructed wooden bridge, and leads onto a finger of land owned by the Marshfield Airport. Surrounded on three sides by the Green Harbor River, this small parcel was until recently a mystery and a temptation to sanctuary visitors-- in plain view across a stretch of river, and yet completely inaccessible.

The trees one sees along the River Walk’s boardwalk path are quite strange. This is a recurring theme in the Green Harbor River Valley. Not only at the Webster Sanctuary, but at nearby conservation areas Wharf Creek, Cherry Hill, and Webster’s Wilderness, the tree trunks are dark, gnarled and stunted-looking. They twist and turn at odd angles, sometimes stretching out parallel to the ground. There is very little growth around them, and very little color, resulting in a landscape that is both eerie and intriguing. What makes the trees grow this way? Is it the soil? The wind? The salt air? The lack of light? Is it some man-made influence?

The Daniel Webster Wildlife Sanctuary is located at the end of Winslow Cemetery Road in Marshfield. From Webster Street, you can follow the blue and white Audubon logo signs. At the end of the road, you will find a small parking area and a visitor information building. At the entrance, you can pick up a trail map, learn more about the property, and find out what creatures have been observed there lately.

Proceed from there to the trails. My favorite tour of the property begins on the Fox Hill trail. Follow it downhill, and take a short detour through the Piggery Loop. Keep your eyes open for the seven northern harriers (marsh hawks) currently inhabiting the sanctuary -- sometimes they perch on top of bird houses.

Once you’ve returned to the main trail, look for signs for the River Walk, which will take you to the first bridge. Cross the river, and follow the boardwalk through the woods and on to the second bridge. You might pause there to see not only a great view of the surrounding marshes and meadows, but also, if you’re lucky, the muskrats who play in the water below. Be sure to stay on marked paths, and don’t stray too close to the river. The banks are unstable and the riverbed itself extremely silty -- not the kind of place you’d want to get stuck (like the Audubon staff member who once sunk in to the top of his chest waders).

The second bridge will connect you with the Sparrow Trail, which leads along the river and back to the main path. Climb to the top of Fox Hill, to the observation platform. If you’re there at the end of the day this winter, you might see long- and short-eared owls hunting. Because the sanctuary is open only from dawn until dusk, the casual observer will have only fleeting opportunities to see these rare creatures. Watch the skies, looking out over the fields toward the ocean, for the fluttering flight of the short-eared owls, or scan the trees and signposts for the more direct movements of the long-eared ones. Audubon occasionally offers guided tours of the property, where you can stay later and see more.

From Fox Hill, return to the main path. You may hear meadow mice scurrying in the grass. Take the winding Secret Trail through the woods to Pond Loop. Consider stopping at the observation blind as well. Most likely, you’ll encounter a flock of Canada geese on your way to the exit; watch your step for their green droppings. Allow yourself at least an hour for this tour, and if you have binoculars, bring them along.

Like all Massachusetts Audubon lands, activities at the Daniel Webster Wildlife Sanctuary are restricted, so please leave your dog, bicycle, skis, and loud voices at home. For a more formal introduction to the property, inquire with Audubon’s South Shore Sanctuaries office (781-837-9400) about their Family Days at the Farm program, happening on the third Sunday of each month this winter, from 1-3.

by Kezia Bacon, Correspondent
January 2000

Kezia Bacon’s articles appear courtesy of the North and South Rivers Watershed Association, a local non-profit organization devoted to the preservation, restoration, maintenance and conservation of the North and South Rivers and their watershed. For membership information and a copy of their latest newsletter, contact NSRWA at (781) 659-8168.